Side Trips: Clear Lake

     It's the off season, and while others are dreaming of summer getaways to destination hot spots, budget travelers are living large, planning big, and going far on bank account fumes. Though every day may not be warm, golden, or even dry, the lack crowds and traffic (depending on where you go) keep the vacation buzz strong. So, if you're lucky enough to have paid vacation but aren't blessed with a large bank account, now's the time to indulge in a side trip. This time around, my side trip was a birthday gift from my sister: a trip to Clear Lake, the largest freshwater lake in California.

     When the traffic is a little less congested, why not take the scenic route? My sister and I drove to Clear Lake via wine country instead of the more streamlined 101 route, which added a little time to the drive but also added lovely views and dining. After passing by several vineyards, we stopped for lunch at the absolutely charming and ever popular Gott's Roadside in St. Helena, which has plenty of outside seating for large groups and your furry friends. Yummy fish tacos and garlic fries! And you can watch the Napa Valley Wine Train from your table.

     For accommodations, why do the usual? We opted for train cars turned tiny homes at the pet friendly Featherbed Railroad in Nice (pronounced like niece), a caboose bed and breakfast that will just warm your soul. Each train car has a different theme, so whether you're on a trip with your girlfriends, a family adventure, or a romantic getaway, you're set here. Our car was the "tropicaboose": wood floors, stained glass window over the bathroom, two separate reading nooks with views of the lake in the cupola you climb up into (disturbance-free reading), and tropical decor throughout. A super delicious birthday cake (chocolate with raspberry filling) from a local bakery was waiting for me on the table. I experienced a charm overload when my sister pointed out a travelers' book where previous visitors wrote diary-like entries about their stay in the caboose and adventures at Clear Lake.

     Soon after arrival, June and her enormous, adorable dog Jake came to say hi and asked what we'd like for breakfast. She suggested Eggs Benedict, my fave, and let us know that videos, games, and books were available to check out in the main house where breakfast would be served the next morning. We then walked down to the lake and took in the views from a private Featherbed Railroad dock. Sigh.

     We arrived at the first of three delicious breakfasts the next morning around 9;30 and were greeted by owners June and Paul, and of course, Jake. The dining room? Charming. The Eggs Benedict? OMG! And then, with some advice from our hosts, we were off on adventures: bird watching at Clear Lake State Park, drives around the lake, visits to Clearlake, Lower Lake, and Lakeport, and lake walks to sunset watch. For wine drinkers, their are many boutique wineries in the area to visit, including the Boatique Winery in Kelseyville, where you can ooh and aah over beautiful boats after the wine.

     Bird watchers will especially enjoy this side trip. There was a group of vultures living in the trees above our caboose, and they're present throughout the area. Though they're not the most glamorous, they're still pretty awesome to behold. I got a close up on the dock, where a vulture was perched in the evening, and a close up of a Great Blue Heron on the shoreline beside the dock. We saw a Great Egret fishing in Lakeport and another at Clear Lake State Park, where we saw a variety of ducks and song birds. The whole experience left me contemplating the merits of city living and brought up fond memories of a small-town childhood.

     The whole trip felt like paradise, and because of the deals we got by going off-season, our wallets were able to relax and let their pennies loose too. When the tourists go home, this side trip is a definite miss-me-not.

The Napa Valley Wine Train

The food at Gott's Roadside was too good for a before picture.

Train cars ahead!

One of two Reading Nooks.

View of one Reading Nook from the other.

The Eggs Benedict.

Clear Lake State Park with its ducks in a row.

Muir Woods

     Life in the Bay Area is busy and often crowded, and any opportunity to escape from city life and enjoy the natural wonders of northern California is always welcome. Though Muir Woods is a popular tourist attraction that can overfill with crowds and traffic, it can be the ideal quiet getaway if done right. Even if you arrive to find it crowded, the chance to get up close and personal with coast redwoods is worth a little jostling.

     Muir Woods, about 560 acres of old-growth redwoods and six miles of walking/hiking trails nestled within Mount Tamalpais State Park, was declared a National Monument in 1908 and was named after the naturalist and preservationist John Muir (although he only visited the park once). There are four bridges that cross Redwood Creek along the Redwood Creek Trail (the easiest trail and fully paved or boarded). Many of the trails cross into Mount Tamalpais State Park, and the Dipsea Trail provides views of the ocean. There is a visitor's center, gift shop, and café on site, and the park is open 8 a.m. to sunset all year long. Tickets are $10, and yearly passes are available, but there are also many opportunities to enjoy the park free of charge (National Park Week, for example, which runs until April 24th this year).

     The proper planning can make Muir Woods a pleasure, but poor planning can make it feel like a tourist trap. There are signs all over the park to please keep as quiet as possible to not disturb the natural environment and its inhabitants, but crowds of people inevitably mean noise (not only talking but the sound of feet on the boarded sections of the path), and that noise can drown out the beautiful birdsong and gurgling of Redwood Creek. I've found the best time to go is right when the park opens (8 a.m.). For the first two hours, the paths remain relatively empty and quiet. By 11 a.m., the park starts to fill, the cars line up on the road into the parking lots, and the people form lines in the gift shop, café, and restroom. Quiet, unhindered photo ops turn into patient waiting for a chance at those same photo ops.

     To get to the park this early, driving is really the only option, and there is free parking. However, parking is limited, and later starters will want to opt for the Muir Woods Shuttle (which is $5 round trip) to avoid waiting for parking: http://marintransit.org/routes/66.html. But be warned that the drive in can be hair-raising. The road is full of sharp turns, high drops (but gorgeous views!), and has no shoulder in most places. Plus, the road is very popular for bikers, who must ride in the lane due to a lack of shoulder. The nervous driver might describe the drive as treacherous.

     Hiking in the early morning means only the occasional passerby, but hiking from about 11 a.m. on can mean waits for access, passing, and photos. However, the variety of trails cater to many stamina levels and preferences. Redwood Creek Trail is perfect for a leisurely walk. The Hillside Trail is my favorite. It provides great views of the Redwood Creek trail, the creek itself, and the park, and it's challenging without being exhausting. At the point where the Ben Johnson Trail splits off, there is a small tree bridge you can cross and climb higher for a better view. For the adventurous, the Dipsea and Canopy View Trail are ideal with steep grades and longer distances.

     After a couple hours of hiking, you can stop by the café for a sandwich, soup, or pastry. The honey-glazed cornbread is popular, and coffee and hot chocolate are also available. People rave about the cafe's Marin Melt, a grilled cheese sandwich made with Cowgirl Creamery cheese. My sister and I enjoyed the sandwich, but we both agree the sandwich doesn't live up to the hype, and the tomato soup that's a recommended companion is a little bland. I also have to warn that the café is a little chaotic. A person is supposed to take your order at one end of the counter, and then you pay at the other, but a person is not always there taking orders, and you might face a lecture at the cash register for trying to place your order there. After a strenuous hike, however, the café is a welcome sight.

     The gift shop has a good selection of redwood souvenirs. There's even a chocolate banana slug you can frighten friends with. The visitor's center has a selection of books and maps about the park, California, and John Muir.

     If you want to learn more about the park and its giants, you can take a self-guided or guided tour, and there are tree talks that occur throughout the day where you can learn such trivia like the clover-looking plant throughout the park is actually redwood sorrel. There is also an excellent history of the park you can download from the website: https://www.nps.gov/muwo/learn/historyculture/index.htm.

     After Muir Woods, you can take a short drive to Muir Beach and Sausalito. Or you can take a little longer drive and visit Stinson Beach, all Bay Area miss-me-nots.

Whoa, a payphone! Warning: poor cell reception in Muir Woods.

My sister identifying our location.

Gift Shop Views

Café Views

The Famous Marin Melt

This tree's life span: 909 A.D.-1930.