Angel Island

     There are many ways to enjoy (and even not enjoy) Angel Island. You can take a quick day trip (via the ferry or your own boat) and just hang out on the beach at Ayala Cove with a picnic lunch or a barbecue feast. You can take your bike via ferry or rent a bike or Segway on the island and hit the Perimeter Road loop. You can even camp overnight. However you choose to experience it, you can't skip Angel Island.
     And here's why. First, the island provides a valuable opportunity to learn about and interact with Bay Area and United States history. The island was home to the Coast Miwok people long before anyone else set foot there, and the island was used for military purposes for most of the United States' wars; Camp Reynolds was built during the Civil War, the East Garrison housed soldiers from the Spanish-American war and welcomed troops returning from World War I. During World War II, soldiers shipped out from the island, and German and Japanese prisoners of war were kept there. And during the Cold War, the island housed the Nike missile site.
     Besides holding the shadows of wars pasts, the island provides a glimpse into the darker side of United States history. One of Angel Island's nicknames is the "Ellis Island of the West" because it served as an immigration station from 1910 to 1940, and almost a million immigrants from all over the world suffered there while waiting for permission to pursue the American Dream. Many had to endure long and complicated tests meant to bar them from completing their journey, and the living conditions were miserable with living quarters stuffed beyond capacity. Some Chinese immigrants stalled on the island due to the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Act carved poems into the walls of the barracks to voice their misery. Those touring the Immigration Station today can still see one fully preserved poem and the ghostly outlines of others that have been lost to time and paint. The island's history encourages a greater respect for the struggles and suffering of immigrants and anyone who has been the victim of racist attitudes and unfair laws.
     On a more positive note, Angel Island offers sweeping views of San Francisco Bay and its various bridges, especially on a clear day. You can see the Richmond/San Rafael Bridge, Bay Bridge, and the Golden Gate from various parts of the island. You can look across the Bay to Tiburon, San Francisco, and Alcatraz. You can watch every kind of ship imaginable sailing to and fro. And you can see a variety of wildlife from various birds and deer to sea lions and whales. Angel Island is one of the best places in the Bay Area for taking souvenir photos or even professional ones.
     Finally, Angel Island is a pretty cheap but pretty dramatic Bay Area experience. You get to cruise the Bay, enjoy the beach, picnic and camp, hike and sightsee, and get an historical brush-up all in one affordable trip. The ferry ride will cost you the most, but you can pack as much food as you can carry onto the island. Entry to the U.S. Immigration Station costs just $5 per person, and if you choose to walk Perimeter Road, you have no other costs. The beach at Ayala Cove is lovely, though the water can be a little murky. And, thank goodness, there are nice bathrooms.
     The last time I visited the island, I went with my sister and dad, and this is how we did it. To avoid the traffic snarl and parking drama of San Francisco, we made the lovely drive to Tiburon, one of the cutest and most charming little coastal towns you'll ever visit. We paid just $5 to park for the day near the ferry stop (don't make the mistake of parking in the pricier lot after the roundabout). We went on a weekend day because the ferry service is extended on those days with a final departure from Angel Island at 5:20 p.m. versus 3:30 p.m. on weekdays, depending on the season (visit www.angelislandferry.com for a full schedule breakdown). As I said, the ferry ticket will probably be your priciest item. From Tiburon, the round-trip ticket will set you back $15, and it's CASH ONLY. Keep in mind that the ticket from San Francisco is $18. Arrive early if you want first pick at seats and locations because that line gets long in a hurry. We took the first ferry departing at 10 a.m. Easy peasy.
     Once on the island, you have to choose how to experience it; by bike, by tram, by Segway, or on foot. But first, if you brought a lot of things you don't want to haul around the island, there are lockers near the café you can rent. For the active and adventurous, biking or walking the Perimeter Road is best (be warned, the loop is about five miles long, and has a few inclines and declines that will make those muscles burn). For those who want a more leisurely experience, the Segway or tram are the best, though they'll cost you. A Segway is $68 per person, and the tram is $15.50 a person.
     We wanted to keep costs low and set our own pace, so we chose to walk Perimeter Road. We went left from Ayala Cove and climbed a long and fairly steep staircase to get to the path. If you go this way, you'll feel every stair, but this is the fastest way to get to the Immigration Station. We chose to tour the Immigration Station and the area around it. There are more stairs, but it's worth it. To get inside and see the living quarters, mess hall, and poems carved into the walls, the cost is $5 per person, again CASH ONLY. There's a large group of tables in front of the Immigration Station where you can enjoy your picnic lunch, which we did, imagining what immigrants must have thought and felt while eating in the same place.
     We then walked to Fort McDowell, where you can wander among deserted buildings, including a hospital, and feel the history sifting under your feet. If you take this route, make sure to stop for a bathroom break because it's the last restroom until Camp Reynolds, and that one isn't easily accessible for the exhausted. The views and photo ops were amazing on the five-mile trek around the island, but I have to admit, that tram looked lovely around mile three.
     Once we dragged ourselves back to Ayala Cove, we sat on the cement wall near the beach to enjoy some refreshments. Kids played in the sand, people moved about their boats anchored in the cove, and families chatted happily around picnic tables and blankets on the grassy expanse above the beach. If you didn't pack a picnic lunch, there's a tiny café near the ferry stop. Hanging out on the beach until a ferry arrives is a nice way to finish your Angel Island experience.
     We caught the 3:30 ferry back to Tiburon so we could make the short drive to Sausalito and do some shopping and dining. Sausalito is also a charming and bustling little place that has plenty of boutiques, restaurants, and lovely views, but it's also pricey. And it has a lot more tourists than Tiburon. This is the place where people who bike the Golden Gate stop to take the ferry back to San Francisco, so there are a lot of people and a lot of bikes. Pack extra food and picnic on the shore near the ferry stop if you want to save money.
     Everyone says to only do Angel Island on a clear day, but a clear day can be hard to come by on the Bay, and you can't always match your day off with the fine weather. We planned well, but the forecast was still wrong the day we went with cloudy skies for most of our trip. However, this turned out to be nice because the cooler weather made for a more pleasant walk, and the views were still amazing. If you visit or live in the Bay Area, Angel Island is most definitely a miss-me-not and a nice break from the crowds.

Foggy Views in Tiburon

Inside the Ferry

 

Shortcut to the Immigration Station

The Immigration Station

 

A Poem in the Wall

The Golden Gate on the Horizon

Perimeter Road

 

Ghostly Ruins

 

Back at Ayala Cove

Bye, Seagull

Bill Dan Balancing Rocks in Sausalito

Berkeley Marina and Cesar Chavez Park

     There's no question the Bay Area is becoming a very expensive and crowded place. This makes free activities away from the hustle and bustle all the more important for people who want to relax and have fun while still making rent.

     A little oases I enjoy that allows me to unwind and still feel like I'm not missing out on the wonders of the Bay Area is the Berkeley Marina and Cesar Chavez Park. The marina itself provides 1100 berths--a great place to do some boat watching--as well as a public pier that doesn't require a fishing license.

     Cesar Chavez Park, which sits adjacent to the marina, provides large stretches of open grass and hilly terrain, wildlife and bird watching opportunities, and views of San Francisco, the Bay Bridge, and the Golden Gate Bridge. On a clear day, one can see the Bay Bridge, San Francisco, and the Golden Gate at the same time from the parking turnabout (see photo below).

     The Bay Trail is nearby so the park is accessible by bike as well as vehicle, and parking is free and plentiful. The Dorothy Stegmann Trail, which is 1.25 miles long, runs around the diameter of the park and is paved. The paved path is mostly flat and is wheelchair friendly. And, happily, the park is dog friendly; there's even off-leash--though unfenced!--dog areas.

     My favorite part of visiting the park is doing a little bird and wildlife watching. There are so many birds, in fact, that birdsong is a throbbing, palpable force depending on the time of day. One side of the park belongs to the red-winged blackbird, and these daring individuals often zip over the path right in front of walkers and joggers and forage in the long grass at the path's edge. Another part of the park belongs to the burrowing owl, though I haven't seen one yet. It's also quite magical to watch the Forster Tern hunting for a meal; this bird hovers above the water like a helicopter before diving for its prey. One can also watch ground squirrels sunning themselves on rocks or munching on seed heads in the long grass. On the water, one can see grebes, a variety of ducks, pelicans, and more going about their birdy business.

     The whole park has a wild feel I have found few other places in the Bay Area. It always feels like I'm deep in nature while wandering the park and yet I'm not too far from Berkeley and the freeway, and the park provides such comforts as bathrooms (or rather, port-a-potties), benches ideally placed for the views, and water fountains.

     For those who don't mind spending money on a trip to the marina, there are three restaurants nearby including the Sea Breeze Market & Deli. There is also a Doubletree Hotel on site for Bay Area visitors, and Golden Gate Fields is just down the road for the horse racing enthusiast. In the summer the marina offers classes at its Shorebird Park Nature Center on water activities and marine biology for children up to 16 years old (more here: http://www.ci.berkeley.ca.us/summer_programs/). Participants can learn about canoeing, sailing, dragon boats, and local wildlife.

     So whether you're a visitor to the Bay Area and need a break from the tourist activities or you're a resident and need a break from the tourists, Berkeley Marina and Cesar Chavez Park are definitely Bay-Area-miss-me-nots.

 

 

Yep, that's the Golden Gate out there.

 

 

San Francisco

 

 

Notice the shipping cranes in the distance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Behold, the red-winged blackbird.

 

 On the horizon from left to right, the Bay Bridge (new span in front, old behind), San Francisco, and the Golden Gate Bridge.

San Francisco's Fleet Week

     Of all the Bay Area events that draw in crowds of tourists, I have heard the most complaints about San Francisco's Fleet Week. I've heard from some who live in or very near the city that they and their pets are annoyed by the sound of the Blue Angels flying over. Others complain that the amount of tourists in the city make getting around nearly impossible.  And many others just seem to be annoyed by the increase in traffic throughout the Bay Area. I have therefore stayed well clear of San Francisco during Fleet Week and have never attempted to enjoy any of its events...until this year.
     I hate crowds, so I was fairly sure the experience would be more stress than fun, especially since my sister and I chose to go on Saturday. However, we went, we saw, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. I'll tell you the choices we made in terms of transportation, viewing spots, and events to make the experience more enjoyable in case this is an event you want to try in the future.
     First, let's talk transportation. Driving, for me, was absolutely out of the question. After spending five hours stuck on the freeway trying and failing to make it to the McCartney Candlestick concert, I vowed to drive into San Francisco as little as possible. I also didn't want to take BART or AC Transit because I wanted a faster and less crowded trip in and out of the city. I also wanted to avoid the F line at all costs. During special events and tourist season, the F line cars are often packed so tightly that passengers are literally sealed to one another or hanging from doors. No, thank you.
     Instead, I took the San Francisco Bay Ferry. There is, really, no better way to get into the city. Even when the ferry is crowded, there are amazing views and nice breezes to make one forget the noise and bustle. There are also plenty of opportunities for pictures. The ferry passes right under the Bay Bridge and pulls in to the Ferry Building and Pier 41, allowing passengers to snap pictures of the cityscape, ships, and the occasional curious seagull. The ferry ride is a bit pricier than other public transportation at $12.50 for a round trip ticket, but when one considers the combined cost of BART, bus, F line, etc., it's a pretty good deal. Plus, if you have Clipper, it's only $9.50 for a round trip.
     We departed the ferry at Pier 41, which is only a short walk from the action. I wanted to do a couple tours of visiting ships docked at Piers 15/17, 19, 35, and 50. However, the lines for these tours were outrageously long, and I had seen the ships from the water on the ferry ride in. I decided to pass on the tours. Nothing can ruin an event faster than waiting in a long line in the heat.
     We then strolled Pier 39. We perused booths selling Fleet Week souvenirs, and we listened to The Destroyers rocking away on the stage near the Hard Rock Café. Despite all the complaints and warnings about the crowds, I found Pier 39 no more crowded than it is during the height of tourist season.
     Our next challenge was finding a place to watch the air show. Box seats were available for a hefty price, but my sister had read about numerous free locations that offered a great view. We originally intended to walk down to the beach near Crissy Field. However, the time got away from us, and the air show started while we were still at Pier 39. So we went out to the deck by The Candy Baron to check out the view, and it was perfect...especially since we no longer had to hike over to Crissy. There weren't too many people crammed into the area yet. We got a good spot behind the glass partitions that shielded us from the wind, and I had an excellent view of the Golden Gate.
     The air show was better than I expected it to be. The planes from Team Oracle, Super Dave Air Shows, Lucas Oil Air Shows, and The Horseman Flight Team did not disappoint. While the fog stayed clear of the Golden Gate, they often passed under and over it. They went as high as they could before dropping straight down and buzzing the ships on the Bay, many of which honked their horns (excitement or alarm?). Sometimes it seemed a plane would crash right into a ship as it skimmed over the water. The Coast Guard helicopter also hovered over the Bay to the delight of many, and I saw the Navy Leap Frogs zig zagging down to earth.
     The thrills really started with the jet teams, of course. The Patriots Jet Team was amazing. They flew in trailing red, white, and blue exhaust. Their sleek, black jets--the L-39C Albatros--were surprisingly quiet as they buzzed the ships, the bridge, each other, and occasionally the crowd. Many people mistook The Patriots for the Blue Angels and left after they were done. One woman near me said that we'd know the Angels when we heard them, and she was right.
     The deafening roar of the F/A-18 Hornets definitely caught everyone's attention as the Blue Angels shot overhead toward the Golden Gate, which was covered in fog by that time. The Blue Angels played chicken, flew in formation, flew upside down, scattered and came back together...everything one hopes to see jets do. They didn't fly as low to the water as the other aircraft, and they were often out of sight more than other aircraft, but they were, of course, awesome.
     The Blue Angels were followed by what appeared to be the C-130, a heavyweight that impressed me with its nimble maneuvering. Then a United 747 buzzed the Bay a few times. I was amazed by how close it got to the water and the ships and by how quiet it was.
     The air show alone was worth the trip into the congested city for Fleet Week. The crowds became an issue only after the show as people filled every area restaurant. There were one- to three-hour waits at most restaurants we visited. We debated on traveling into the city for a bite, but the F line was as packed as we had expected. However, as my sister and I read the menu outside Alioto's Waterside Café on Fisherman's Wharf (she does not eat seafood), a staff member actually came out and called us in to an open table. Alioto's staff and food are amazing, and I had a great view of the Wharf while we ate. I had the crab sandwich, and my sister chose the chicken parmesan. A girl at the table next to us ordered a whole crab, or I should say, a monster crab that drew passerby in.
     We wanted to stay for the fireworks, but we had been warned by people, news outlets, and even the ferry staff that it might be challenging to catch the ferry back. We were told to line up early. We decided to watch the fireworks while in line for the 9:15 ferry. The fireworks started at 8:30, and we got in line a little past 8. The line wasn't long at this time, but it quickly passed from sight as 8:30 arrived. However, as long as it was, we all got on the ferry just fine and with plenty of room to spare. And we were able to enjoy the Bay Bridge lights, Coit Tower decked in orange for the Giants, and views of the city at night on the ride back.
     If done right, the event is actually pretty cheap. The air show is free, and you can pack snacks and meals to save money. Keep in mind that if you want to eat at a restaurant in the area after the show, there will be long waits at most of them. This is definitely an event you have to be flexible for. Be willing to change your plans. Also keep in mind that your experience can differ greatly depending on the mode of transportation you choose. Make sure to pack a sweater and a hat, and I recommend taking your phone charger or extra batteries for cameras. After the right preparation and with the right attitude, I would definitely count Fleet Week on my list of Bay Area Miss-Me-Nots.